Glycerin - does it nourish the skin or does it dry it out?

Glycerin is one of the ingredients that you encounter most often in cosmetics. You can find it in most personal care products, from soap to moisturizer. But why is glycerin so popular? And what about the criticism that it would dry out the skin?

For years, glycerin has had a reputation for drying out skin. Is that correct? yes and no . As with so many ingredients, the right concentration and combination is also important here.

So that you can understand this, let me briefly explain the function of glycerin: Glycerin is hygroscopic and attracts water like a magnet . It is a humectant and is often and willingly used in cosmetics (and food).

A special feature of glycerin is its small molecules . As a result, glycerin easily penetrates the epidermis and works deeper in the skin than hyaluronic acid (also a humectant), which has larger molecules and is less able to penetrate the skin.

How glycerin affects the skin:

So where did the rumor come from that glycerin is said to have a drying effect? As I said, glycerin loves water. However, the glycerin doesn't really care where the water comes from, as long as it is easily available. It can come from three sources:

1. Water from the ambient air (at high humidity)
2. Water from other ingredients in the product
3. Water stored in the skin
   
   

Perhaps you already know which source shouldn't be used for glycerine? Exactly, from source 3: water from your skin! As soon as glycerin does not get enough water from other sources, it draws water from the deeper layers of the skin up to the skin's surface. The drying effect is created. Two factors prevent this from happening: the right formulation and the right concentration.

Glycerin may not care where it gets its water from, but your skin certainly doesn't. It is therefore important that glycerin is always accompanied by moisturizing ingredients. Then it does not bind water from your skin, but uses the water from the product. In this combination, glycerin moisturizes your skin deeply and for a long time.

By the way, high humidity is great in connection with glycerine, i.e. vacation in a warm, humid climate or a good humidifier at home. A good moisturizer can then work even better!

Do you have to be afraid that your product with glycerin will dry out your skin? No. Today, cosmetic products are formulated with this knowledge. No reason to panic , because in high-quality moisturizing creams and serums, glycerin is dosed and combined in such a way that it shows its best side.

☝️ Tip: Recognize water-based substances on the INCI list: At least one water-based ingredient should be present before glycerin. Best in first or second place. For example Aqua , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice or …Flower Water.

The more glycerin the product contains, the higher the water requirement. If the concentration is too high, at some point it can no longer be compensated for in the recipe. Therefore, the dosage of glycerin also plays an important role.

The drying effect occurs when a product consists of more than 10% glycerin . If you have already researched a bit online, you may have noticed that some sources only speak of a drying effect from 30%. Why is that? Well, the effect doesn't suddenly change.

Concentrations up to 10% are harmless in skin care. Above that, the effect gradually turns into the opposite until it becomes really critical from 30%. In skin care products, the glycerin content is usually 3-5%, which is well within the “safe” range.

Glycerin is a natural part of the body . Fats are constantly being processed during metabolism, with glycerol being produced as a by-product. This is then transported into the skin, where it supports the barrier function . Because it is natural and already present, glycerin is very well tolerated. It is allergen-free and is also suitable for sensitive skin .

The comparison with hyaluronic acid is particularly interesting because, like glycerine, it also belongs to the moisture binders, but is much more hyped. A bit wrong, in my opinion, because glycerin has an extremely small molecular mass (92 daltons) and is so much better able to reach the deeper layers of the skin than the smallest hyaluronic acid, the so-called oligo hyaluronic acid (10,000 daltons). In our FIVE facial serum we therefore combine hyaluronic acid and glycerine so that the skin is well supplied with moisture-binding substances from the surface to the deeper layers of the skin.

What is glycerin made from?

Organic glycerin from coconut oil

In the right dosage, glycerine, in combination with watery ingredients, provides your skin with plenty of moisture. And that's a must. The skin needs at least 20% water to make you look really fresh and radiant.

And the beauty of glycerine: It moisturizes the skin down to the deeper layers. This improves elasticity and tightens . In addition, this deeper water deposit cannot be washed away so easily when cleaning the face.

Since glycerin binds water from the environment, two factors are crucial when formulating cosmetic products:

1. The product must be rich in moisture.
2. It may only contain small amounts of glycerin.

Product tip: The moisturizing serum from FIVE consists of 4% glycerine and, thanks to organic rose petal hydrolate, provides plenty of moisture.